www.atevo.com Every year, a parade of cars and buses descends on Yosemite National Park, as visitors stream in for a peek at this exquisitely carved wilderness. They come for the granite monoliths, like El Capitan and Half Dome; the wildflower-filled meadows in upper Tuolumne; and for Giant Sequoias in Mariposa Grove. They also flock here for an array of robust waterfalls, each with a character all its own.
In the seven square mile glacier-cut Yosemite Valley the spotlight lands on Yosemite Falls--the highest cataract in the U.S. and fifth tallest in the world. Yosemite Falls, which lunges 2,425 feet all told, is divided into two: Lower Yosemite Falls, with a drop of 320 feet, and Upper Yosemite Falls, which plunges 1,430 feet. A series of intermediate cascades, with a 675-foot descent, act as a connector between the two.
Hiking to the Lower Yosemite Falls is quick and easy from the nearby parking lot, just a quarter mile from the base of the falls. At the bottom, there is a small loop path that leads over a bridge near the falls, getting you close to its spray. On full moon nights in April and May, what John Muir called "moonbows" reflect on the water in the lower fall.
A hike to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls is only for the strong of leg and iron-cast of will. The Yosemite Falls Trail takes visitors on a strenuous 3.6-mile path up the north side to the crest of the falls. Lookouts from the top spread over Yosemite Valley and the waterfall itself. From the south side, on the way down, water spurts out of the rock and regroups in formation below.
Yosemite Falls nearly dries up in autumn and winter, so the best time to visit is during May or June.
Though Vernal Fall's 317-foot drop barely brushes the heights of Yosemite Falls, its rainbow mist at the base creates its own allure. The Mist Trail, the most popular in all of Yosemite Park, directs visitors to Vernal Fall Bridge where there are unparalleled views of the fall. The walk to the bridge, which runs along the Merced River, is a moderate trail with a few slopes and inclines, but the remainder of the path to the top of the fall entails a steep climb and some large granite steps. The mist that blows from Vernal Fall over part of the trail--mainly during spring--makes the walk a bit slippery.
These slick steps are not the only danger to visitors. Usually, hikers in the Silver Apron area--the wide open flat, granite spot above the fall--relax here after their trek up. Travelers who ignore the warning signs, and swim in the Emerald Pool above Vernal Fall, run the risk of being swept over the fall. The drop has even killed a few tourists during the past several years.
"A French guy got sucked under the fall a couple of years ago," says Scott Gediman, chief of the Yosemite public information office. "We still can't get to the body. We've even named it Bob."
For those who heed the warnings, the Mist Trail is completely safe. "If someone comes to visit who only has one day in Yosemite, that's where I take them," Gediman assures.
The Mist Trail continues to Nevada Fall, which shoots 594 feet down a granite cliff. The whole hike, which departs from Happy Isles, takes a good six to eight hours. Visitors can also follow the Vernal Fall-Clark Point Loop Trail, which runs for three miles. The hike is strenuous, especially from the first bridge over the Merced River and up to Clarks Point, which is on the connector trail to the John Muir Trail.
Off Route 41 in the park, a short trail leads from the Bridalveil Fall parking lot to the base of the cataract. Bridalveil plunges 620 feet--the height of a 62-story building--into an alcove opposite the massive rock El Capitan. The Yosemite Indians (Ahwahneechee) called this place "Pohono," or spirit of the puffing wind, because the water is often blown into a mist. As the sun sets, Bridalveil Fall picks up the golden colors on the water and surrounding rock.
Vernal, Nevada, and Bridalveil Falls run all year long, though spring brings heavier waters.
Though they're far less traveled, other falls line the Yosemite Valley, including Illilouette Fall off the John Muir Trail, and Horse Tail Fall on the side of El Capitan. Sunsets on Horse Tail Fall are especially colorful in winter. West of El Capitan, Ribbon Fall drops in a strand 1,612 feet to the valley floor, making it the highest single fall in Yosemite and one of the highest in the world. Ribbon Fall is often overlooked by visitors because it is set back in a recess of the rock from which it runs, partially obscuring its view. Ribbon, Horse Tail, and Illilouette Falls run strongest in spring and summer, and are often dry the rest of the year.
Outside the valley in the Hetch Hetchy area, one of the least visited regions in the park, Wapama Falls, takes its place as the counterpart to Yosemite Falls. Though it doesn't have the height of Yosemite Falls, the volume of water flowing over it is greater and more consistent. Only the top half is visible; the Hetch Hetchy Dam floods out the remainder of the valley where the falls land.
On the Tuolumne River, downstream from Tuolumne Meadows, Waterwheel Falls spews water upward in an arch as it hits rock shelves. The cascades are at their most active from May to the middle of July. The falls are accessible only by an eight-mile hike or horseback ride from Tuolumne Meadows. South of Yosemite Valley, near Wawona, Chilnualna Fall rushes through a narrow chasm near Chilnualna Creek. A four-mile trail leads to the fall, which takes between six and eight hours roundtrip.
On weekends during spring and summer, Yosemite Falls and Vernal Fall can become overwhelmingly crowded. To feel the spray from these majestic falls at peak times usually entails walking elbow to elbow with fellow visitors. Though the crowds don't detract from the falls themselves, weekday visits can be a bit more serene.
Accommodations need to be booked well in advance for those who want to stay in the park. Six months is not too early. For campers, many require reservations while others offer first come first serve sites. The Yosemite Concession Services (phone 559-252-4848) has information about reservations, openings, and cancellations. |