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Best of Malacca: City where old is gold


 

www.nst.com  By Tan Bee Hong  One gets the best of both worlds in old Malacca. This oldest city in the peninsular is over 600 years old, started from an tiny fishing village that grew into a important port that countries like Holland, Portugal and then Britain fought to control. Malacca finally cast off its foreign shackles when the country gained independence in 1957.

 

Each of these European powers helped contribute to the colourful history of the State, giving rise to a melting pot of colours and culture which is precisely why visitors continue to make their way to Malacca, even if it’s just for a weekend.

 

Apart from the Malays, the Chinese and Indians, Malacca’s residents include:



The Cristang

Known today simply as Cristang, the descendants of the earliest Portuguese settlers continue to live mainly in the Portuguese Settlement along Ujong Pasir. Some are fishermen and this is where you can get the most satisfying seafood dinner – spicy fish baked in banana leaves, clams straight from the sea, prawns in sambal and “burnt” crabs baked with aromatic black pepper.

The Cristang are a colourful people who love dancing and singing. You can catch them in a festive mood during the Fiesta San Pedro, held in the middle of the year. The festival is dedicated to St Peter, the patron saint of fishermen and for three days, there will be songs, dances and the aroma of Cristang cuisine.



Babas & Nyonyas

The Chinese presence in Malacca dates back to the 15th Century when Princess Hang Li Poh arrived to be married to Sultan Mansur Shah. She brought with her a huge entourage who settled in the town and inter-married with the local Malays. In time to come, they adopted the Malay language and local customs as well as acquired their tastes in food, giving rise to the peranakan culture that’s peculiar to these Straits-born Chinese. The men are known as baba and the women, nyonya. Babas wear sarung and nyonyas wear baju kebaya but with a difference, the tops are usually embroidered with Chinese motifs.

 

For a taste of baba culture, head for Jonker Street (Jalan Hang Jebat) and Hereen Street (Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lok) where impossibly narrow streets are flanked by double-storey houses which wealthy babas and nyonyas once called home.


The Chittys

Just like the babas, Chittys are the descendants of Indians who came in the 15th Century and intermarried with the locals. They also dress in Malay clothes and prepare their food Malay style but they are staunch Hindus and observe all the religious Hindu festivals.

Where To Stay

There are international hotels as well as family-run inns like The Baba House Hotel in Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lok. For modern comfort, there’s the Renaissance Melaka in the centre of the city and within walking distance of many tourist attractions.

 

Things To Do

For a quick tour of Malacca, hop on board a colourful, flower-decked trishaw. Most of the trishaw riders speak Bahasa and some English and will point out various places of interest. Most trips centre around the old city centre with stops at Christ Church, Stadthuys, A’Famosa and Jonker Street. Or you can opt for guided bus tours.

Apart from those listed above, there are so many places to visit like the Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum, the Chitty Museum, the Malacca Sultanate Palace, Bukit Cina, Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, Kampung Kling Mosque, Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple, Malacca Zoo, Air Keroh Recreational Forest and Malacca Crocodile Park.

Or stroll at leisure through Jonker Street where antique shops and souvenir shops as well as pubs and restaurants draw the crowd. At night, the area is turned into a huge pasar malam where you can get anything from souvenirs to clothes, toys, shoes and food.

What To Eat

No one starves in Malacca. You can have your choice of Chinese food, Malay food and Indian food but you shouldn’t leave without having a feast of its popular nyonya cuisine like curry kapitan, udang lemak nenas etc. Malacca is also famous for its Cristang cuisine especially Portuguese baked fish and devil curry. Oh, we mustn’t forget the famous chicken rice balls and durian cendol either.

 

What To Buy

Pretty wooden clogs, beaded slippers and basketry as well as antiques and other collectibles. Or you can pick up a variety of cookies, dried fruits, gula melaka, dodol and bottles of cincaluk.

 

Getting There

Malacca is just 150kms or 1½ hours drive away from Kuala Lumpur while Singapore is 250kms south or 3½ hours away. It’s just one hour from KL International Airport.

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East Horizon Airlines targets October launch
East Horizon Airlines targets October launch

New Afghan carrier East Horizon Airlines is targeting an October launch. (14/09/2011)

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