Musandam Peninsula: wild and beautiful
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www.holiday-in-oman.com The Musandam Peninsula lends itself to superlatives and holds delights
for the even the most jaded traveler. The smallest and most northerly region of Oman, it overlooks the Straits of Hormuz, the narrow passage of water that links the Arabian Gulf with the Gulf of Oman. Ninety percent of oil production and a huge volume of trade from the Gulf move through the strait, giving it worldwide significance.
Entirely mountainous, the coastline is tortuous, the fjords deep and the scenery breathtaking, wild and beautiful. The Hajar mountain range runs 640 km from the south of Oman to end in the Musandam where the aptly named Ru'us al Jibal , Or Heads of Mountains, plunge dramatically and dizzily into the sea. The stark peaks, formed many millions of years ago by great upheavals in the earth's crust, dominate the landscape. Claw-like fingers of rock extend seaward where ancient sunken valleys have created long fjords and inlets. Small villages nestle on what little flat land there is on the convoluted coastline.
The single graded road through the region is an engineering masterpiece. Part of any holiday in the Musandam is to travel the road as it snakes through narrow gorges, up hairpin bends and descends steeply into wadi beds.
The Musandam Peninsula is separated from the rest of Oman by a 70km stretch of the United Arab Emirates. This, coupled with the difficult terrain, means the local Shihuh tribe people who live there have developed in relative isolation, creating interesting differences in language and culture between them and their mainland compatriots.
The men carry jerz, a small axe head on a long stick, rather than the khanjar that is common in the rest of Oman. Their stirring tribal cry, Al Nadba, is heard only in the Musandam. It is used during times of celebration, such as at weddings. The Nadib stands in the middle of his tribe, raises his right hand in the air, places his left hand on his face and forehead and utters piercing cries. The tribe members respond with short cries as he tells of the pride and glory of the tribe and then proceeds to praise the guest tribe.
The two main tribal groups within the Shihuh are Bani Shatair and Bani Hadiyah. Mountain shepherds belong to both tribes and speak a form of Arabic not used elsewhere in Oman. They have perfected the unique "bait al qufl" (house of locks) as protection from the elements and to secure belongings when they are away from home. The floor, a metre below ground, has raised stone slabs for eating, sleeping and storage purposes. The deeply recessed door has a double locking system and opens inwards. The rectangular stone houses can be seen in Wadi Rawadah and Al Khalidiya.
Khumzar, a small coastal town reached only by sea, is a two-hour sail from the capital, Khasab. The Khumsari fishermen, members of the Bani Shatair, speak a unique mix of Arabic, Old Persian and other non-Arabic words. The town lies on an age old trading route with Iran a mere 55km away. The language no doubt reflects contact with different cultures.
Whichever way you choose to reach the Musandam, the journey is part of the experience. If you fly, the flight offers stunning aerial views of rugged mountains where caracal lynx and wolves roam and the cry of the rare Arabian leopard is still reported. Tiny dwellings cling precariously to the mountainsides. Occasional patches of green show crops coaxed into life on the arid terrain.
Khawr as Sham, at 20km in length, is the biggest fjord and glistens in the sunlight as the approach to Khasab is made. The town lies in a natural harbor at the foot of Wadi Khasab with high cliffs on both sides and mountains to the rear. Khasab, which means fertile in Arabic, has a good supply of fresh water and fertile soil and the town is almost hidden from the air by extensive date plantations. The harvest of the "ruttab", the ripening date, brings mountain shepherds, Khumzari fishermen and almost everyone else in the Musandam to the capital in the summer. Barasti huts made from palm fronds make summer homes.
In the centre of Khasab's corniche stands a magnificent 16th century Portuguese fort. Renovated by successive Omani rulers, it is open to visitors. Until a few years ago, the cannon outside used to be fired on the sighting of the new moon to announce the beginning of religious holidays. The fort is built around a central courtyard with three squares and one round watchtower. Wooden rungs in the wall carry you to splendid views of the surrounding area. A shop inside the fort sells locally made craft items.
The modern souq still sells the jerz. Imported ones cost around 3 OMR, a locally handmade one up to 40 OMR. Traditionally, the long handle is made from the almond tree and decorated with bands and crosses cut into the wood. The 5cm axe head is fashioned from intricately carved steel. Prayers were inserted inside the jerz to keep evil spirits at bay.
The small harbour is lively in the morning with local fishermen bringing in the catch. Wooden dhows jostle with modern, brightly painted boats. From here the tarmac road hugs the coast to Quida and Tawi then on to Bukha and the border with the UAE. Near the village of Tawi, ancient rock drawings of warriors, boats and animals decorate the rocks. Stop above the village of Hannah to watch currents move like ribbons in the calm clear water below and for mountain top views over the Gulf. Picturesque Bukha lies in a crescent shaped bay ringed by mountains. The 17th century Al Bilad fort was renovated in 1990 and is open to visitors. The main pear-shaped watchtower is believed to repel shot more readily than the conventionally shaped ones. Your guide will show you the depression in the ground where prisoners were forced to lie exposed in the sun. The remains of Al Qala'a fort, an older fort, stand high on a hilltop overlooking the town.
Khawr Najd, behind Khasab, is the only fjord accessible by land. Stop before you descend the hairpin bends to the sea for a magnificent panorama. The perfumed wild lavender there will add to the experience.
The Khasab-Daba road passes through the Sayh plateau where Jebel Harim, 'Mountain of Women' at over 2,000m provides a majestic backdrop. Sayh is a fertile area with fig trees, palm groves and fields of onion, radish and alfalfa. In spring the Arabian almond trees perfume the air with white blossom. After negotiating some exciting bends, the road travels along the crest of a ridge that makes you feel as though you are on top of the world. It then descends steeply on to the bed of Wadi Bih and the track to Wadi Rawdah. Near the junction are remains of a large pre-Islamic settlement with crumbling, cairn tombs. Opposite is an old Islamic graveyard. The headstones are usually engraved depicting horsemen, palm trees and jewellery. The track to Wadi Rawdah unexpectedly ends with a picture postcard view. Towering mountains encircle a lush area of woodland, wild flowers and scented herbs. Around the woodland are well maintained bait al qufl. Camels and goats graze and the greenery, clear air and light combine to create a scene of harmony and peace not easily forgotten.
No holiday in the Musandam would be complete without a dhow trip to Khawr Sham, tranquility in itself. The deep, clear waters reflect mirror images of the surrounding mountains. The tiny villages of Qanaha, Maqlab and Seebi are barely distinguishable from the cliff faces. Sun-bleached boats drawn up on the beach glow in the sun. Sea birds nest and roam the cliffs, fragile butterflies hover over the boat deck, flying fish skim the water, and as if on cue dolphins, rush to play in the wake or your boast. Swimming and snorkeling are popular around Jazirat Seebi and Jazirat al Maqlab. The latter is known as Telegraph Island from its use as a British telegraph base in the 19th century.
You can sail on to Khumzar although it can be rough when you reach the open sea. En route, you pass Khawr Ghubb Ali, the deepest fjord with scattered pristine beaches and excellent fishing. Then Jazirat al Ghanam, an Omani naval base, known as Goat Island from the days when goats were left there to graze, looms into view. The island has no supply of fresh water; folklore has it that the goats filtered seawater through their hooves to make it fresh.
A narrow inlet takes you into the sheltered harbour of Khumzar, with its green and turquoise waters. You may see batil, classically graceful boats decorated with cowry shells and colored ribbons, once common in the Musandam but now no longer made.
Towering mountains dominate the village, squeezed into a small area at the base of a steep gorge. The houses are raised on either side of a channel that runs from the gorge and offers protection from flooding by sea or rain. Narrow paths between the houses have barely room for two people to pass. Space is at such a premium that the dead are sometimes buried beneath the houses, a practice also followed in southern Iran. It used to be said that if a dog barked in Khumzar the well would run dry which might explain the complete absence of dogs. Despite its remoteness, Khumzar has a desalination plant, electricity, a school that teaches Arabic and a weekly helicopter to take women shopping in Khasab.
Whatever you choose to see and do in the Musandam, the memory of the overpowering natural grandeur and the feeling of remoteness will linger to remind you of the holiday of your dreams.
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