By Anthony Jefferies

Why go?

Two continents, two seas and countless nationalities come together in Tangiers, a short ferry hop from Spain but a world away from Europe. The Kasbah, medina and mosques speak of the Islamic world but there are Western influences everywhere, mostly left over from French colonial days.

There are remnants, too, of the bohemian society enjoyed by writers such as Paul Bowles and William Burroughs, but the overall picture is of a bustling city blending old and new under blue Moroccan skies. It is an enjoyable antidote to chilly northern winters, the sights are worth seeing, the food is excellent and the shopping possibilities are endless.

Travel by...

Air to Tangiers with Atlas Blue (http://www.atlas-blue.com/), which has direct return flights from Heathrow from about £241; or Royal Air Maroc (http://www.royalairmaroc.com/) from about £173, also from Heathrow.

Stay at...

Hotel El Minzah (85 Rue de la Liberté,  00212 39 935 885, http://www.elminzah.com/), the plushest choice in the city centre and a quiet oasis amid the bustle. Comfy lounges, large bedrooms and a lovely terrace and patio; doubles from £139 b&b.

On the northern edge of the Kasbah (the old, walled fort), La Tangerina (19 Riad Sultan, Kasbah,   00212 39 947 731, http://www.latangerina.com/) is as good as guest houses get. Beautifully restored, with 10 well planned bedrooms, tasteful decor, friendly owners, great breakfasts on the roof terrace and even a hammam; doubles from £40 b&b.

Villa Josephine (231 Route de las Vieille Montagne (Sidi Masmoudi), 00212 39 334 535 , http://www.villajosephine-tanger.com/), a 10-minute taxi ride west of the city, is a beautiful 19th-century colonial mansion, dripping in original detail, with gorgeous grounds including a pool and terraces with views across the Mediterranean. A stunning location, though one for the warmer months; doubles from £293 b&b.

Spend the morning at...

The medina, the old part of Tangiers, which fans out from Grand Socco - one of the city's great people-watching squares. Wander through the souk with its thousands of stalls and as many colours, sights and smells (though you should return in the evening for the best buzz), and follow the labyrinth of alleys towards the Kasbah.

The old and historic American Legation, off Rue du Portugal, has some interesting displays of prints, maps and paintings of old Tangiers. Factor in a couple of stops for heady, sweet, mint tea - maybe at Cafe Colon on Rue de la Kasbah or in one of the cafés lining the Petit Socco.

Lunch at...

The terrace restaurant of the El Minzah Hotel (details above) - a perfect setting for a Moroccan salad or a lamb tagine. Expect to pay £20 or more for two courses.

There is atmosphere in every charming, faded corner of the Hotel Continental (36 Rue Dar Baroud, 00212 39 931 024), overlooking the port. Grilled meat or fish and a sticky pudding on the terrace will cost £12.

The slightly run-down air of Café Hafa (Rue Hafa) in the Marshan district, west of the city centre, can't detract from the views across the Straits from its half dozen terraces. An old retainer treks up and down with drinks and snacks such as Moroccan bread, olives, dips and other light dishes. Later, join the locals as they sit around the nearby Phoenician burial ground overlooking the city.

Stroll around...

Pop  in to the nearby Contemporary Arts Institute, then head down to the seafront, wander along the promenade, nip onto the beach (avoiding the dozens of football games) and reward yourself with more mint tea at one of the many cafés.

Buy...

Leather goods, pottery, jewellery, rugs and throws. You can find them everywhere, though goods in the souk are often of inferior quality. Try the Artisans centre on Rue de Belgique where you can watch rugs, furniture, ornate plasterwork and jewellery being made. The treasure trove of Boutique Majid (66 Rue les Almouhades, 00212 39 938 892 , http://www.boutiquemajid.com/) deep in the souk is unmissable. Stunning antique robes, necklaces, chests, doors and fabrics are commonplace and you can spend anything from £10 to £10,000.

Have dinner at...

Restaurante Populaire (on the steps at the foot of Rue de la Liberté), a traditional fish restaurant beloved of the locals. Buckets of atmosphere, a cauldron of fish soup bubbling in the corner, breads and dips, grilled fish and puddings such as pomegranate in honey, with home-made fruit juice thrown in, and all for £10. Unbeatable.

At Hammadi (2 Rue de la Kasbah, 00212 39 934 514), sprawl on the sofas and feast on harira soup, delicious pastillas (pigeon meat pasties), tagines and fish dishes from £9 a head.

El Dorado (21 Rue Allal Ben Abdellah, 00212 39 943 353 ), a good, local restaurant full of chattering diners feasting on salads and grills.

Also see:

With a trip to the country. For £40 you can hire a taxi and head west to Cap Spartel where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet. Look at the rock formations and crashing seas at the cave of Hercules, then nip down to the yawning beach nearby. It runs all the way to Agadir, 700 miles away.

At all costs avoid...

Locals offering to act as guides around the medina. Their facts tend to be inaccurate, and they overcharge. Arrange a guide through your hotel or the helpful tourist office (29 Boulevard Pasteur,  00212 39 948 050; open 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri).