www.syriamc.com/ The site was founded early in the 3rd century BC by Seleucus I, a former general in the army of Alexander the Great. He named the city to honour his Persian wife Afamia (the Arabic name of the city in Arabic). As a result of the rich pasture of the adjacent Al-Ghab plain and hillside, Aphamea was famed for its horses. The Greek historian Strabo, noted that the city had around 30,000 mares and 3000 stallions, as well as 500 war elephants.
Pompey and the Romans seized the city in 64 BC, this led to Aphamea’s golden era in the 2nd century AD, by which time most of it had been rebuilt by the Romans following an earthquake in 155 AD. The results of this reconstruction combined with what is know as ‘reconstructive archaeology’ (archaeologists re-erecting the fallen Roman columns) by a team of Belgians since the 1930s, comprises the site as we see it today.
Aphamea was visited by Mark Antony and Cleopatra, on his return from staging a campaign against the Armenians on the Euphrates river, such was the prosperity and fame of the city of half a million residents. Aphamea continued to prosper throughout the Byzantine period too, until it was sacked by the Persians in 540 AD and again in 612 AD.
Directly after the Umayyad empire gained control of Syria later on in the 6th century AD, Aphamea fell into decline. The city regained importance when the Norman commander, Tancred, took control of the city in 1106. The occupation was short lived though, since Aphamea was won back by Nureddin 43 years later. Eight years on the city was effectively flattened by another devastating earthquake.
After this, the site remained inhabited by the Mamluks, who made the Quala’at al-Mudiq citadel which protected a small village. It became a popular stop-over place for pilgrims travelling south to Mecca.
SIGHTS
The main attraction at Aphamea is the Main Street or ‘Cardo’. At 2km long it is longer than the one at Palmyra and due to the reconstructive archaeology it is beautifully furnished with parallel columns on both sides of the street. In some places there are raised paved areas on either side of the street which lead to lower level facades that were once shops. At other places along the street you can view Roman baths, public water fountains and forums.
THEATRE
Only a feint resemblance of what archaeologists have deemed to be the biggest amphitheatre theatre in the eastern Roman Empire remains. The 2nd century AD theatre is set in a hollow near the museum.
MUSEUM
The museum at the Quala’at al-Mudiq is well worth visiting. Near the citadel, a building that was formerly a stable now houses some marvellous mosaics and some archaeological pieces.
TRAVEL
Microbuses from Hama run regularly to the village of Suqeilibiyya, 45km from Hama. In Suqeilibiyya there is a connecting bus that takes you to Qala’at al-Mudiq. Ask for the museum (al-mathaf).
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