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www.syriamc.com Often referred to as ‘the finest castle in the world’, Krak des Chevaliers, otherwise known as Qala’at al-Hosn, has stood relentlessly for 800 years and remains in excellent condition. For this reason it is undoubtedly one of Syria’s finest attractions and due to its sheer size, one to be explored over the course of a whole day. Since the fort changed hands more than once between the Arabs and the Crusaders, it is possible to distinguish Gothic, Romanesque and Islamic architecture.
The location of this fortress is strategically important because it lies in the ‘Homs Gap’; between the southern end of the Jebel Ansariyya mountain range in Syria and the northern end of the Anti-Lebanon Range (Jebel Libnan ash-Sharqiyya). This was an important trade route from Tartous on the coast to Homs and other inland destinations. Even today, it represents a major road link between the two cities.
The first fortress at the site is known to have been commissioned by the Emir of Homs in 1031. In 1099 the first crusade passed through on their way to Jerusalem and ousted the Emir. Christian Knights took over the fortress completely in the 12th century and by the middle of the 12th century the fortress was replaced by the elite Knights Hospitaller and transformed into Krak des Chevaliers that we see today.
The reign of the Christians was brief though. They relinquished the fort after only a month to the Mamluks, led by the sultan Beybars, even though they had enough supplies to last 5 years. It was a last stronghold for the retreating Christians. They left after reaching a peaceful arrangement with Beybars, who then garrisoned the castle with his own troops and further strengthened the defences.
The castle can be viewed in two sections: There is the imposing outside wall and its 13 towers and the main entrance, and then there is the inner fortress. There is a moat dug into the rock foundations which separates the two sections.
In the outside section it is possible to walk around the whole outer defences up and down staircases and along the length of the fortifications.
In the inner fortress, the highlight is a 120m long room that runs the length of the western wall. In the courtyard you can visit the chapel which was later converted into a mosque after the Mamluks took over; the minbar (pulpit) still remains. If you make your way to the tower in the south-west corner, known as the Warden’s Tower (the tower where the Grand Master of the Hospitallers is said to have had his quarters) you can ascend to the roof where, haze permitting, some magnificent views can be enjoyed.
Krak des Chevaliers lies 10 km north of the highway, halfway between the towns of Tartous and Homs. It is easily visited from either town by microbus, and this could be for a day trip or whilst passing en route on the highway from one town to the other. If you ask the microbus driver to stop at Qala’at al-Hosn, you will then need to take another microbus for the short journey uphill to the site.
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