www.pittsburghlive.com  Ancient Thebes, a ghost of the centuries, lives on in colorfully painted tombs deep beneath the dry desert and towering columns of ruined temples.

This city, built on and around Thebes' treasures along Upper Egypt's life-giving Nile, holds the grandeur of the finest Egyptian monuments dating to 2000 B.C.

The vast site has lured travelers for centuries.

Greek historian Herodotus described the "hundred gates of Thebes" after his visit around 450-440 B.C. During Thebes' twilight in 19 B.C., Roman emperor Germanicus found one of the last Theban priests to explain the mysteries of hieroglyphics gracing temple columns, obelisks and walls.

More recently, French writer Gustave Flaubert, sailing down the Nile in 1850, described the sensations of a visit in a letter to his mother: "We finally left Thebes yesterday morning. It is a place where one could stay a very long time and in a perpetual state of astonishment -- by far the finest thing we have seen in Egypt."

Some fellow 19th-century travelers could not resist leaving their names for posterity; temple columns still bear their graffiti, dating to 1804.

The small village of Thebes emerged as a seat of power around 2000 B.C., uniting the cities of Upper and Lower Egypt. During its heyday, the pharaohs of the "New Kingdom" all lived here, and the accompanying architectural frenzy (80,000 workers toiled on the Temple of Karnak during the reign of Ramses III) still astounds visitors.

One of the most popular tourist sites in a country packed with antiquities, "old" Thebes and "new" Luxor suffered a horrific setback in November 1997 when Gama'a Islamiyya terrorists killed 58 foreign tourists and six Egyptians at the temple of Egypt's only female pharaoh, Queen Hapshetsut. In response, the Egyptian government launched a years-long successful campaign against the group.

Today's only threats are swarms of tourists, over-eager guides and persistent souvenir vendors.

The Nile divides Luxor's delights. On its west bank stretch the Theban necropolis of the Valleys of the Kings and Queens, tombs of the Nobles and of workers who toiled on royal burial sites, the temples of Medinet Habu, Queen Hapshetsut and the Ramesseum, and the Colossi of Memnon. On the east bank are scores of hotels, cruise ships, restaurants, a tourist bazaar, Luxor Temple and the sprawling Karnak complex.

Tour buses and taxis cross the wide river over a bridge that is a 20-minute drive away. For less than a dollar, adventurous visitors can chug across on a ferry clogged with locals -- men in white turbans and long cotton gowns called gallabiya, gold-bangled women in black gowns and multicolored headscarves. Tourists clambering aboard are likely to draw surprised stares and enterprising would-be guides. Not to worry, though: The locals like "the pink people," as sunburnt Westerners are known.

No matter where you stay (see accompanying story on hotels), an early rise is recommended. By afternoon, the temperature can pass 100 degrees.

First stop in the Valley of the Kings is the ticket office for all west-bank sites. For those with limited time, the best itinerary is a mixture of tombs, temples and a visit to the lively open-air market. Try to include the temples of Queen Hapshetsut, Medinet Habu and a night-time sound-and-light tour of the Temple of Karnak, as well as the tombs of Queen Nefertari and a sampling of others in the Valley of the Kings and the Tombs of the Nobles.

Ancient Greeks thought the Colossi of Memnon, towering 68 feet over the entrance to the valleys, had spiritual powers. The real jewel, however, is the tomb of Nefertari, beloved wife of Ramses II. Although the tomb was recently restored, the vivid colors of its wall and ceiling illustrations are original. They depict Nefertari with the gods in exquisite detail, such as translucent white gowns and feather plumes.

To preserve the marvelous artwork, only 150 visitors are allowed inside each day -- so buy your ticket early, warns Ahmed Soliman, a hotelier who offers guided tours.

Tucked away in the desert mounds of the Valley of the Kings are the painted tombs of some of Egypt's most important pharaohs. One ticket covers entry to three tombs. A separate ticket is required for the famous tiny tomb of boy-pharaoh Tutankhamun. From the main restaurant/visitor center -- where you can buy water, sodas or an expensive meal -- a mini tractor-driven train takes you to the tombs' entrance. The sun is relentless and some deep tombs are quite hot, so bring bottled water; a flashlight may be useful in the dimmer tombs.

For those tired of tombs and temples, take in the color at the Tuesday market where locals buy everything from fresh fish and live pigeons to coarse hand-woven baskets and household wares. Ask hotelier/guide Soliman to drop you into the hands of a couple sweet local girls who are practicing their English; for a few Egyptian pounds and cold Cokes, they'll keep away unwanted hangers-on.

The scene is dizzying, as hawkers yell out prices, customers barter with shouted words and waving arms, and black-clad women hurry by balancing incredible bundles of goods on their heads.

Another option is a sunset sail on the Nile aboard a traditional high-masted felucca.

Luxor souvenirs include items from all over Egypt, but the best picks are alabaster carvings and old silver jewelry. Alabaster is mined 12 miles from the Valley of the Kings, and some pieces make lovely candleholders and lamps. Tourists can also indulge in onyx pharaonic cats, stuffed camels, scarabs inscribed with hieroglyphics and the ubiquitous papyrus with scenes from ancient times.

Don't forget to bargain; it's also better to avoid the hawkers near the tombs.

Luxor is not known for great cuisine. Yet, for restaurants with unique atmosphere, try a few on the west bank.

Mahmoud Said, a boisterous former chef for French archaeologists, runs Tout Ankhamoun restaurant; its outdoor seats offer a view of Luxor Temple's lights twinkling across the Nile; chicken curry or marsala, stews and other entrees, follow tasty appetizers of eggplant, beans and salads. Or sample such dishes as curried kofta at the Al Moudira hotel's restaurant, decorated with Italian and 18th-century Ottoman motifs.

Luxor is filled with tourists during winter months, but the hustle and bustle melts as the heat rises from June through August. Then, all prices plummet because, as hotelier/guide Soliman says, the locals "sleep during the summer."