Hastings: A Small Town With A Big History
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By Karen Dabrowska
Islamic Tourism: Hastings is best known for the battle of Hastings, which was fought at Senlac hill six miles north-west of the town.
The battle took place in 1066 between the Norman army of Duke William of Normandy from France, and the English army led by King Harold II. Harold was killed during the battle; traditionally, it is believed he was shot through the eye with an arrow. Although there was further English resistance for some time to come, this battle is seen as the point at which William gained control of England. Every year, on the weekend closest to October 14th, English Heritage organises a re-enactment of the battle.
The pope ordered the Normans to do penance for the killing: there were around 5,000 English and 3,000 Norman casualties. William the Conqueror built an abbey on the site of the battle with the altar of the church on the spot where King Harold was killed. It is marked with a plague on the ground. The church, Battle Abbey, actually named St Martin's Abbey, was completed in 1094. All that is left today is its outline on the ground and those buildings constructed between the 13th and 16th century, which are still in use as the independent school, known as Battle Abbey School. Visitors to the abbey are not allowed inside the abbey itself, although during the school's summer holidays, access to the Abbots Hall is often possible.
A walk around Hastings, especially the Old Town, creates a penetrating flash of insight into the fishing industry, and life in a port town, throughout the ages.
Hastings is one of Britain's oldest fishing ports. Boats have worked from the beach in front of the ancient town for over a thousand years, supplying Hastings with its basic industry and main tourist attraction. Visitors can talk to fishermen who are still busy with their boats and nets on the beach. There are also a number of stalls selling delicious fresh fish, fish and chip restaurants and more upmarket establishments such as the Fish Café which occupies an unusual listed building and is laid out on two levels: on the ground floor is a café that is bright, modern and minimalist; upstairs is a smart and slightly formal dining room used for evening meals.
The history of the fishing industry is told in an interesting and informative way at the Old Town Museum whose displays take the form of a walk back in time, covering all major events like the slum clearances of the 1930s, the rise of the Victorian resort, the town as a Napoleonic garrison, the story of the notorious fraudster Titus Oates, the role of the Cinque Ports as well as the fires, floods and raids of the Middle Ages. The Old Town Hall was built in 1823, replacing an 18th century building on the same site. It has been a museum since 1949.
Originally the Fishermen's Church, the Fishermen's Museum was founded by the Old Hastings Preservation Society in 1956. The Enterprise, the last sailing lugger to be built at Hastings in 1912, is its most impressive item. Part of the church building had to modified to accommodate the lugger.
One of the greatest known concentrations of historic sunken ships lies off the shore of South-East England, particularly where it borders the English Channel, one of the busiest seaways in the world. Nearly 1,000 ships have been swallowed by the sands of East Kent alone and many of these are in good condition because the soft sand and silt preserves the wood. The Shipwreck Heritage Center was opened in Hastings in 1986 by the Nautical Museums Trust to document the history of the wrecks and display the excavated 'treasures'. The centre has a 'must-see' video where an old sailor, immortalised in a life-size mannequin, describes how his boat sank while visitors sit beside the recovered wreck.
Hastings is also a town of parks and gardens. The largest is Hastings Country Park: 267 hectares (660 acres) of ancient woodland, heathland and grassland together with five kilometres of dramatic cliffs and coastline. Also a nature reserve the park is of archaeological importance due to its impressive number of archaeological finds and landmarks.
Few English towns are without a castle: in Hastings a visit to the castle on West Hill includes an exciting 20 minute audio-visual programme covering the conquest and the history of the castle through the centuries. The ruins visitors see today are the remains of a stone fortress (built after William of Normandy's coronation) which was practically impregnable from three sides. Less than half of the original structure remains. Near the castle the local cafe provides sumptuous cream teas and delicious lunches all served with a generous helping of healthy salad grown nearby.
The attractions of the small town with a big history can be easily visited during a day trip from London. Those saying overnight have to sample the Sussex Breakfast made from quality local ingredients There is milk from local small dairies, free-range eggs, apple juice, seasonal fruit, and tasty jams, mustards and marmalades. Caring animal husbandry and respect for the Sussex landscape and wildlife is a central part of the ethos of the Sussex Breakfast and of the county.
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