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Bukit: Malaysia’s Town At The Foot Of The Mountain


 

 


www.nst.com It has been called many names. Locals refer to it as simply BM or Bukit and among the Hokkiens, it’s Tua Swa Kah which literally means “at the foot of a big mountain”. To the rest of us, it’s Bukit Mertajam.

Approximately 15km west of Butterworth in the interior of Seberang Perai (formerly known as Province Wellesley), Bukit Mertajam is, like many towns, named after a tree. The Mertajam (Erioglossum rubiginosum) tree is smaller than the Ipoh or Melaka trees, with ruby-red berries that develop from a creamy panicle of tiny blossoms.

It may be small in size but not in terms of geography, politics and spirituality. As a railway intersection, it links Butterworth to the east coast, Padang Besar to the north and Kuala Lumpur to the south, turning it into a crossroad of cultures. In the mid-1900s, it was even called Little Haadyai.

The Mertajam hill has always been the landmark. Standing at over 450 metres tall, its peak is the perfect site for a telecommunications tower. From the top, one gets a good view of the Penang Bridge on a clear day. The hill is also home of the 37-hectare Bukit Mertajam Recreational Forest which is a popular spot with residents.

Most of the settlements and development have taken place on the west of the foothills. There is a vivid contrast between the old and new townships. The most recent development is Bandar Perda, undertaken by the Penang Regional Development Authority (Perda).

This multi-million ringgit project is the hub for the local government as well as the commercial and residential centre of central Seberang Perai. The town infrastructure is well planned while the architectural style that combines both Islamic and modern elements is pleasing to the eye.

The old side of the town still maintains its charm. Since Penang lost its free port status, Bukit Mertajam has evolved into a shopping haven. The busy Jalan Pasar (Market Road) is still the main attraction among the locals as well as residents from nearby towns like Kepala Batas in the north and Nibong Tebal in the south. Jalan Pasar is famous for its textile merchants who offer a wide range of products at attractive prices.

Built in the 1950s, the wet market in Jalan Pasar attracts customers from as far as Penang for its fresh seafood that is sold at very affordable prices. Sundays at the market can be both a satisfying as well as educational experience.

Bukit Mertajam is also well known for its spiritual side. The Tua Pek Kong Temple is the spiritual centre for the Chinese. Located along Jalan Pasar, it is the venue for the largest effigy of the “King of Hades” during the “Hungry Ghost” celebration in the seventh lunar month, drawing worshippers from near and far.

On Chinese New Year’s Day as well as the first and 15th days of every Chinese lunar month, worshippers also flock to the temple. On these occasions, the side lanes around the temple will be a hive of activities with peddlers and butchers.

For Catholics, the old Saint Anne’s Church along Jalan Kulim is where they find solace. Just walking up the steps gives one an air of peace and tranquility. To accommodate the growing number of worshippers, a new building was added to the old church that was built in 1888 by Father F.P. Sorin. It’s interesting to see the contrast between the orthodox and the new local architectural designs.

Each year the Saint Anne’s Novena and Feast draws tens of thousands of worshippers. Pilgrims come from as far as Thailand, Singapore and The Philippines. The highlight of the nine-day celebration is the candlelight procession.

Another important landmark in Bukit Mertajam is the Bukit Mertajam High School. First opened on January 18, 1927, to accommodate about 300 students, the school is one of the oldest in the country. Solidly set on high ground, this faithful alma mater has constantly strived to produce high achievers and leaders, the most notable of them being Prime Minister Datuk Seri Abdullah Ahmad Badawi.

The school crest bears the Latin words Aut Copisse Noli Aut Confice which means “Accomplish or Do Not Begin”, serving as a guiding light to students and teachers alike that have passed through its gates.

GETTING THERE

The town is about four hours drive from Kuala Lumpur. On the North-South Highway, exit at Bukit Mertajam. From the toll plaza, follow signboards to the town. The drive from the plaza takes about 20 minutes. The Mertajam hill serves as a beacon to the area.

THINGS TO DO
Visit Mengkuang Dam and Bukit Mertajam Recreational Forest for relaxation and exercise. Go on an urban tour of the commercial sector of Jalan Pasar, Railway Station, wet market, Summit Shopping Centre, Saint Anne’s Church and Bukit Mertajam High School.

WHERE TO STAY
A number of accommodations are available, from budget hotels to the three-star Summit Hotel. There is also a rest house and, if one prefers to lodge closer to nature, the chalets at the Bukit Mertajam Recreational Forest are recommended.

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