A Story Of Malaysia’s History
www.nst.com Although many of the old palaces have been lost, the few remaining ones need to be cherished and admired. Many of them are showcases of Malay culture and craftsmanshipThe Malay word “istana” means “palace”. In Sanskrit the word means “sleeping place”. The early Sultans of the Golden Chersonese, as the Malay peninsula was then called, often constructed their palaces at strategic points near river mouths as the river was an important mode of transport in those days.
However, given the monsoon season, floods were frequent and, as a result, many of the palaces were damaged. Others were simply neglected and later torn down to be used as firewood! Today, it is estimated that there are less than one dozen wooden palaces in the country.
Old wooden palaces were often embellished with intricate carvings that demonstrated artistic talent and technical competence of an extremely high level.
As Islam prohibited the direct depiction of life forms, these carvings were abstract and stylised versions of flowers, holy verses from the Quran and plant forms such as bean tendrils, gourd leaves and catnip. They are arranged in patterns that resemble moving clouds or awan larat.
To appreciate the beauty of the old Malay palaces, you have take a tour of the few precious structures that have survived the ravages of time.
Arguably the most beautiful old palace in the country is Istana Kenangan, perched atop Bukit Chandan (Chandan Hill) in Kuala Kangsar.
Built in 1926 by Sultan Iskandar Shah (1913-1938), it served as his official residence from 1931 to 1933. Expert craftsmen Haji Suffian and his sons, Zainal Abidin and Ismail from Seberang Prai, managed to construct the building without any nails. (The use of nails is an ancient taboo in Malay society as they are associated with coffins).
Its eaves and gables are carved and its plaited walls of split bamboo are painted black and yellow. The structure stands on 60 pillars and its roofs have five ridges. It is presumed that the five ridges represent the five pillars of Islam.
In the 1960s, Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al Haj, Malaysiaيs first Prime Minister, restored the palace and called it by its present name which means “Palace of Memories”. In 1986, it was converted into the present Royal Museum. Medals, costumes and old photographs of royalty sitting on elephant back and British officials posing with Sultans and noblemen in ceremonial regalia are among the interesting exhibits.
In Sri Menanti, the royal town of Negri Sembilan, the jewel in the handful of palaces found there, is the Istana Lama. It was built between 1902 and 1908 for Tuanku Muhammad Shah, the 7th Yang diPertuan Besar of Negri Sembilan.
The efforts of Kahar and Taib, two Malay master carpenters, resulted in a breath-taking four-storey building that incorporated the usage of 99 pillars.
These pillars represented the warriors of the various suku or clans of Negri Sembilan. Using the technique of tebuk pasak (mortise and tenon), the craftsmen completed the building without any nails.
The centre of the palace is a tower known as Tingkat Gunung which rose 20 metres above the ground. The second floor housed the bedrooms for members of the royal family, while the third floor functioned as the Yang diPertuan Besar‘s apartment.
The fourth floor was taken up by the royal archives and prayer room. Roof tiles were made from ironwood, while its walls and pillars used cengal wood transported from a forest 64km away in Bukit Perigi in Jelebu.
Cuthbert Woodville Harrison, in his Illustrated Guide to the Federated Malay States (1923) wrote of the palace: “The palace itself is built entirely of dark red wood in Malay style, the two ends raking skyward to flamboyant gables. Set against the background of dark green hills with a broad lawn in front, it is the fitting culmination of the Sri Menanti Valley and its dozens of little Malay houses, any one of which might serve as model for the Astana itself.”
Within the State Cultural Complex of Seremban, the capital of Negri Sembilan, an interesting former palace is the Istana Ampang Tinggi. Built in 1866, it displays Minangkabau memorabilia inside. Its thatch roof is made from nipah palm and its verandah is profuse with leaf carvings. The roofline is curved with the gable sweeping upward at each end – locally referred to as buffalo-horn roof – which is a characteristic of Minangkabau architecture.
It is sad that in Malacca, the historical city, no wooden palace has survived its turbulent history. However, there is a partial replica of the Malacca sultanate palace in Jalan Kota at the foot of St Paul‘s Hill.
It functions as the Cultural Museum and exhibits weapons, musical instruments, Malaccan artifacts and a diorama on Malay court life during Sultan Mansur Shah‘s reign during the 15th century.
The Malay Annals describes the Malacca sultanate palace as follows: ”the door posts of the door were carved, and 40 other doors were painted and gilded”. According to the records, there was also a seven-tiered roof of copper and tin, which was supported with pillars adorned with carvings of swallow‘s wings and shapes of clouds. In 1460, one year after Mansur ascended the throne, the palace was destroyed by fire when it was struck by lightning.
In Kota Baru, an excellent example of Malay creativity is found in the wood carvings of the Istana Jahar. (The Malay word “Jahar” means “flame-of-the-forest”.)
Located in Jalan Sultan, it was built in 1887 by Sultan Mohammad IV (1881-1889) for his son Long Kudin. In 1911, the Sultan added a marble floor and a wrought-iron staircase.
Today, the palace has been converted into the Museum of Royal Customs. Its walls have carved panels inspired by plant forms and some holy verses from the Quran depicted in the cursive Thuluth style of calligraphy. Apart from admiring the carved embellishments, one can also soak up the beauty of the beautiful textiles and songket (silk with gold embroidery) on display. There are also dioramas of important royal ceremonies, such as weddings and circumcision ceremonies.
A unique old Malay palace with Thai influence in its architecture is the Istana Balai Besar (literally meaning “Palace With Great Hall”) in Alor Star. Consisting of two floors, it features a colonnaded portico with two staircases, and was built in 1898 by Sultan Abdul Hamid. Its frieze and architrave are decorated with carvings of Thai design.
In 1904, it was expanded with the addition of a hall to accommodate the wedding ceremonies of Sultan Abdul Hamid‘s five eldest children. Istana Balai Besar is not open to the public and is used for state functions and royal ceremonies.
Behind the Istana Balai Besar stands the Istana Kota Setar. Originally built in 1763, it has endured the destruction of past invading forces to Kedah. It was damaged by the Bugis in 1771, restored but again devastated when the Thais conquered the State in 1821.
In 1983, Sultan Abdul Halim converted the palace into the present Royal Museum to commemorate his 25-year reign as ruler. On exhibit are personal memorabilia of the Kedah royal family. Of special interest are those belonging to Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al Haj, a prince of the Kedah royal family and Malaysia‘s first Prime Minister.
In the new millennium, the traditional wooden Malay palace has lost its status in Malay society. As such, the handful of surviving structures ought to be cherished as our cultural treasures. Visit them today before they disappear forever. | 
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