Land Before Time: Malaysia’s Amazing Nature Heritage
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www.nst.com By Gerald Chuah at the border of Peninsular Malaysia and Thailand, Belum-Temenggor, a rolling 300,000 hectares of virgin tropical rainforest surrounding a massive lake, is a biodiversity hotspot and national heritage.
The rainforest has been around for 130 million years and is home to thousands of species of flora and fauna, some of which are found nowhere else in the world.
I have always been curious about Belum; its name, meaning “land before time”, conjures images of a peaceful, enchanted garden inhabited by all kinds of wildlife.
So it was with great anticipation that I packed my bags and headed there in September on a trip organised by the Pathfinders group of Malaysian Nature Society. Our group of 25 MNS members – enthusiasts who sought out new places through trekking, camping, and mountain climbing – was led by Wye Ping who reminded us that, in the jungle, we were only visitors.
For a city boy, spending three days and two nights in the heart of nature had its rewards. It was an opportunity to observe nature at its best, surrounded by green trees and water.
Everywhere I turned, there were mist-covered mountains, still lakes with reflections of puffy clouds in clear blue skies, dead tree trunks jutting out from the water, tall tualang trees with naked white trunks soaring upwards from the dense jungle and occasionally, the magnificent hornbills.
Orang asli guides took us around in boats and on foot. We stayed at Sungai Halong campsite, with wooden shelters that made up the kitchen, bedroom and bathroom. Water came from a clear stream nearby and generators provided electricity.
With food and basic necessities taken care of, we could afford to relax and enjoy the stillness of nature.
The following day we went in search of the rafflesia flower, but all we found were seven buds. The six-hour jungle trek was gruelling with many uphill climbs that left us huffing and puffing.
But it was worth it to see plants like ginger flowers, kacip fatimah, fungi growing on dead tree trunks, vines, huge meranti and merbau trees, lantern bugs and a baby tortoise hidden amongst brown leaves on the forest floor. We also spent time in the boat on the lake and were excited every time hornbills flew overhead.
After the trip, I realise how lucky we are to have a natural paradise to call our own, and secondly, I am now aware of the great damage done whenever a tree is chopped down and dragged through the forest floor, destroying everything along its path.
As Wye Ping said: “Always remember, nature can do without us, but we can’t do without nature.”
Getting There From Kuala Lumpur, take the north-south highway and exit at Kuala Kangsar toll. Then proceed to the Gerik-Jeli East-West Highway and head for Banding.At Gerik, you can stop and buy supplies before continuing your journey. Along the way you will cross two bridges, and see a signage for wild elephant crossing – the first in the country. At Banding Island, park at the Banding Island Public Jetty and proceed to Sungai Halong campsite via boats operated by orang asli.
Things To Bring Waterproof jacket, good hiking shoes, warm socks, T-shirts and shorts, slippers, torchlight, pillow, sleeping bag, binoculars, cap, digital camera with spare batteries and tobacco juice to leech-proof your socks. If you plan to go hiking, get a good pair of hiking boots as parts of the trek can be slippery. Also, keep within sight of the group, as it is so easy to make a wrong turn and get lost. To prevent leech bites, soak your socks, pants and shoes properly with tobacco juice.
Things To Do Jungle trekking (if you are fit enough) to see and appreciate some of the wild plants. Boat rides along the lake for a scenic view of misty hills and green forests. Look out for rafflesia flowers and hornbills in flight (large flocks can be seen between the months of August and October when trees in Temenggor begin to fruit).You can also visit Kampung Tujuh, an orang asli village nearby, to observe and understand their way of life.
Accommodation The only hotel here is Banding Resort Hotel, about 1km away from the jetty. Basic chalet and dormitory-style accommodation is available at the Lembah Belum Recreational Centre on Pulau Tikus (they also organise boat trips, meals and guides). Otherwise bring your own camping equipment or go to Sungai Halong campsite which has a ready-made wooden shelter and platform.
Fast Facts DO you know that there are 12 countries around the world that hold more than 75 per cent of all of Earth’s species. Malaysia is one of them and yet, we have been listed by the IUCN (the world conservation union) as having the highest count of extinct plants. In 2003, the upper corner of the Belum-Temengor Forest Complex was set aside as the Royal Belum Park with 117,500 hectares compared with the total area of 300,000 hectares that comprises Upper Belum, Lower Belum and the great Temenggor Forest Reserve. |
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World Islamic Tourism Mart / Malaysia
WITM 2012 InCoMTHU Conference will feature quality and world renown speakers not only from Malaysia but from around the globe. In its 6th Year, the WITM InCoMTHU Conference 2012 will have speakers fro (16/05/2012)
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